Appears well-proportioned.
Shows a discernable waistline behind the ribs.
Has a thin covering of fat over its ribs and abdomen.
Overweight signs:
Appears to weigh too much for its size.
Has heavy fat deposits on its back, face or limbs.
Shows a rounding abdomen.
Underweight signs:
Feels 'bony.'
Shows only minimal fat on its ribs.
Appears to 'cave in' just behind its ribs.
• Food tips
An average adult 10-pound cat should eat about 275 calories a day. Ill
or injured cats may need more.
Natural feeding cycle includes 12-20 small meals a day. Food can be available
at all times, but portions can be limited. Water should always be available.
Overweight cats can be helped to lose weight by providing less food in
their bowls throughout the day, serving less-tasty food and avoiding table
scraps.
Vegetarian diets can lead to "harmful deficiences" in many nutrients.
But a small amount of fiber may be useful.
Cats are indeed more finicky about their food. Owners should ensure that
their cat's preferred foods contain enough nutrients.
Taste and texture are important. New food should be gradually mixed with
familiar food.
Thinking about bringing your cat indoors--and out of harm's way--for good? Find out how to make the transition while keeping your kitty healthy and happy.
Courtesy of Humane Society of the United States
Courtesy of Humane Society of the United States
If swallowed, string, ribbon, rope, turkey bindings, nylon
stockings, and other long, flimsy but sturdy materials could tangle up
a dog's or cat's digestive tract. In such cases, surgery is often required.
If your dog or cat has ingested string, call your veterinarian immediately.
Never attempt to remove swallowed items on your own.
Courtesy of Dog
Age
Courtesy of Dog Age
Courtesy of Humane Society of the United States
Attention, companion animal caretakers! The ASPCA would like to call your attention to these common-sense cautions that’ll help keep your pets safe and stress-free this time of year.
1. No tricks, no treats: That bowlful of candy is for trick-or-treaters, not for Scruffy and Fluffy. Chocolate in all forms can be very dangerous for dogs and cats, and tin foil and cellophane candy wrappers can be hazardous if swallowed. If you suspect your pet has ingested a potentially dangerous substance, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
2. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, yet they can produce gastrointestinal upset should pets ingest them. Intestinal blockage could even occur if large pieces are ingested.
3. Keep wires and cords from electric lights and other decorations out of reach of your pets. If chewed, your pet could experience damage to his mouth from shards of glass or plastic, or receive a possibly life-threatening electrical shock.
4. A carved pumpkin certainly is festive, but do exercise extreme caution if you choose to add a candle. Pets can easily knock a lit pumpkin over and cause a fire. Curious kittens especially run the risk of getting burned or singed by candle flames.
5. Dress-up can be a big mess-up for some pets. Please don't put your dog or cat in a costume UNLESS you know he or she loves it (yup, a few pets are real hams!). For pets who prefer their “birthday suits,” however, wearing a costume can cause undue stress.
6. If you do dress up your pet, make sure the costume isn't annoying or unsafe. It should not constrict the animal's movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe or bark. Keep a look out for small, dangling, or easily chewed-off pieces on the costume that your pet could choke on.
7. Take a closer look at your pet’s costume and make sure it does not obstruct her vision in any way. Even the sweetest animals can get snappy when they can't see.
8. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room during peak trick-or-treat visiting hours. Too many strangers can be scary and stressful for pets.
9. When opening the door for trick-or-treaters, take care that your cat or dog doesn't dart outside.
10. IDs, please! Always make sure your dog or cat has proper identification. If for any reason your pet escapes and become lost, a collar and tags and/or a microchip increase the chances that he or she will be returned to you.
Courtesy of ASPCA
Plan Ahead to Travel With Pets
A week on Cape Cod. A drive up the California coast. Ten days visiting the castles on the Loire. There are countless ways to spend a vacation, but before you start making plans, you have to answer the big question: Do you take the cat with you or leave her at home? Here are some guidelines to help you decide what’s best.
Where Are You Going?
If you’re going abroad, the policies of the nation you’re visiting may make the decision for you. Some countries – such as Great Britain, for instance – require quarantines that may last 6 months or longer. Some nations, such as Canada or Mexico, only require you to show proof of vaccination. Canada requires proof of rabies vaccination within the past 3 years while Mexico requires proof of vaccination within the past year.
By the way, if you plan to travel to Hawaii, you should be aware that the state is considered “rabies-free.” State law requires you to quarantine your pet for 6 months.
Other factors to consider:
A few days in the sun may be just the ticket for you, but the heat may be too much for your pet: Check with your veterinarian before heading off to the beach.
Some places are prone to infectious diseases such as Lyme disease or giardia (an intestinal parasite). Check with your veterinarian about prevention strategies.
Whether you’re planning to cross an international border or just crossing from state to state, you need a health certificate for each animal traveling with you. The form, valid for 10 days, must be completed by an accredited veterinarian as proof that the animal doesn’t have any contagious diseases.
Getting There by Plane
Within the United States, an estimated 160 million people and 500,000 pets travel by air each year. This summer, flying with a pet in tow has become more expensive – and complicated – than it used to be. Generally speaking, cats are small enough to be able to travel as carry-on, but the rules vary from carrier to carrier. Check your carrier’s regulations before you make your reservations.
If your cat is going cargo, you have to ship him in an airline-approved carrier; if he’s flying in the cabin, his carrier has to fit under your seat.
Getting There By Car
During summer drives, keep the air-conditioner going. If you make a stop, never leave an animal alone in a closed car, where he can overheat. Even on a cloudy day a short trip into the grocery store can turn fatal. The same is true in cool weather. A closed metal car, if exposed to the sun, can still turn into an oven. Other points to consider:
Pets are safest in a crate (see below).
If you’re traveling long distances, bring bottles of water, food, litter and litter box, treats, special blankets and toys.
Train your cat early to like the car: lessons should start when he’s a kitten. Take short neighborhood rides, gradually increasing the distance as the animal becomes more accustomed. And don't forget to praise him lavishly when he behaves.
Your cat should be microchipped and his license and identification tags engraved with your with name and address. Some people add a neighbor or relative's name; if you’re traveling, the finder can reunite you and your pet through that contact.
Carry your pet's vaccination and medical records with you.
Take along your pet's regular food; Changing his diet on the road can stress him out. To avoid carsickness, don’t feed your pet for three to four hours before leaving home. Also, bring litter and a litter box.
The Issue of Sedation
Many owners ask whether they should sedate their pets on long trips in the airplane or the car. In general, many veterinarians do not recommend tranquilizing or sedating pets on trips. Sedatives have the potential to cause side effects in pets, which may be severe enough to require medical treatment. This is why most veterinarians oppose tranquilizing pets traveling by airliners. Traveling as cargo, a pet is not continually supervised by the crew or the owner, so they may be unaware of an emergency. In addition, should an emergency occur, there isn’t any chance of stopping off at a veterinary clinic or hospital.
Always consult your veterinarian about sedation before making a decision.
A Crate or Carrier is a Must
Whether you’re going by car or by plane, invest in a sturdy airline-approved carrier with enough space for your pet to move around easily, stand up and lay down. Mark it clearly with your name, address and phone number, up arrows and attach “Live Animal” stickers to it.
Make sure the carrier has fixed food and water bowls and secure doors. Ventilation holes should cover at least 14 percent of the wall surface of the carrier, with most of them at the top half of the box. Bowls should be accessible without opening the carrier door.
A few weeks before your trip, start getting your pet used to the carrier. Leave it out in your home, with the door open. Let the animal go in and out on his own. Once he’s comfortable with the crate, close the door for 5 or 10 minutes. When you let him out, don’t make a big production: This could make the animal equate the carrier with punishment, release with reward.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of hotels and motels that will make your pet welcome. Some may charge special fees and/or damage deposits. Make reservations well in advance.
If you’re traveling with a cat, change the litter daily to reduce odors.
Place a blanket or your pet's regular bed on the floor to minimize shedding on the carpet. Do not let him sleep on the furniture.
Put the “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door whenever your pet is in the room. If you don’t, the housekeeper may be injured or accidentally let your pet escape.
Leaving a cat alone in an unfamiliar room is never a good idea. If you have to, put your cat in his crate. Shut the door and wait outside a few minutes to make sure he doesn't start meowing or howling. If he does, you’ve no choice: You’ll have to take him with you.
The bottom line: Think of other pet owners coming behind you. Don’t ruin it for them!
When to Leave Your Pet Home
Your veterinarian can help you decide whether to take your pet with you or put him in a kennel. If you decide to leave him behind, ask your vet to recommend a place for him to stay or recommend a pet sitter.
A few weeks before you plan to leave, stop by and check out the space. Make sure it is clean and inquire about temperature control, ventilation and light. Take a look at the playroom and see if the animals have enough room to exercise.
Once you’ve chosen a kennel, make reservations early and confirm
them. Many kennels suggest that you leave a piece of your clothing so
your pet has something familiar and comforting. When you drop off your
pet, don’t stage an emotional “farewell.” Pets are
sensitive to your emotions and this may create anxiety. Be sure to leave
your veterinarian’s number and a number where you can be reached
in case of emergency.
Courtesy of TLC Pet Food
Many of our four legged companions enjoy the breeze blowing through an open car window during an afternoon drive. And while a monitored car ride may be healthy, leaving your pet in a piping hot car unattended can be fatal.
Courtesy of TLC
Pet Food
Cat Myths
1. Cats should have a litter before they are spayed.
This is not true. Cats that have a litter before they are spayed are not better for it in any way. In fact, spayed cats are healthier and have eliminated the risk for life-threatening uterine infections.
2. Street cats are always healthier than purebred cats.
This is not true. Both purebred and “street” cats can be unhealthy. Both can have diseases, however, many mixed breed “domestic” cats do not have many of the genetic diseases common in purebred lines.
3. Cats cannot be trained.
This is not true. Cats are very smart and can be trained to do tricks.
4. Cats like tasty food.
Cats have poor taste buds and eat primarily based on their sense of smell.
5. Cats will let you know when they are sick.
This is not true. Cats generally are very good at hiding that they are sick by survival instinct, thus not to appear vulnerable to “prey”. Often by the time they show you that they are sick, their disease or condition is quite advanced.
6. Cats don’t need heartworm prevention.
This is not true. Cats can get heartworm disease, even indoor cats. Heartworm disease is spread by mosquitoes, which can come inside.
7. Cats don’t need litter box trained – they naturally know where to go.
There is a natural instinct for many cats; however, not all cats understand the litter box concept.
8. Cats are happier and healthier when they are outdoors.
This is not necessarily true. Many cats are happy being outside at certain times, especially when the weather is good. However during bad weather – they would prefer to be inside. But cats are definitely not healthier when outdoors. The average lifespan of strictly outdoor cats is estimated to be approximately 1 year of age; indoor-outdoor cats about 3 – 6 years and indoor only cats have an average lifespan closer to 13 – 15 years.
Information and advice contained on this site is for your consideration
only.
Please consult your veterinarian for specific advice concerning the care
and treatment of your pet.
Courtesy of TLC Pet Food
Does your cat go crazy for catnip? There's no mistaking the signs. She dances and wriggles around the room and begs shamelessly as you pull the bag out of the drawer. Then there's the protective hunch as she guards her stash from potentially pilfering felines. That's followed by the pawing, licking, rolling, writhing, frolicking and just plain nutso behavior that normally seems just too undignified for a cat. And lastly, there's the drugged-out (and harmless) afterglow.
Courtesy of TLC Pet Food
Courtesy of Humane Society of the United States
& Tick
Season
is Officially here.Ticks are pesky parasites that feed on warm blooded creatures, such as our pets. We've been on a constant battle with them for centuries and continuing.Control and prevention of ticks is extremely important in reducing the risk of disease associated with ticks. This includes removing the ticks as soon as possible and trying to prevent attachment.
Courtesy of Humane Society of the United States
Anyone who believes that never had a cat!
No one can “prove” that a cat feels love anymore than it can be proven
that a person feels love. Love is one of those things that cannot be proven.
What is love anyway? Here are some Merriam-Webster Dictionary definitions:
1. strong affection
2. warm attachment
3. unselfish loyal and benevolent concern for others
Cats, of course, show affection—other than just when a meal is about to
be served. Unless a cat has had a traumatic history with humans, she will
seek out her owner for affection in the form of play, stroking or perhaps
a chat.
But because cats do what pleases them, and show affection to their owners
on their own terms, some say that cats are unattached, unaffectionate
and unloving—as evidence, they won’t even come when called.
These people are comparing cats to dogs. Cats are more like people than
dogs.
Think about one of the most loving human relationships, such as between
mother and child. When the child calls from another room, and mom is occupied,
she may not even notice. If she does, she’s most likely to call back,
“Just a minute!” Unless she believes her child is in danger, she not going
to go bounding into the other room wildly excited to see what he wants.
So coming when called is not a sign or test of love and devotion.
Or, a mother hugs and kisses her child, and the kid happily hugs and kisses
back, and then squirms out of her arms. That doesn’t mean the child is
unaffectionate and detached; it just means she’s had enough loving for
now. Cats, like people, have their boundaries.
But do cats form an attachment? There are many known cases where the owner
had to leave, or died, and the cat showed signs of distress. Cats have
been known to sit at the owner’s bedroom door meowing. They’ve gone into
hiding. They’ve even refused to eat. Some perfectly healthy cats have
simply died after the loss of their owner, the only cause seeming to be
a broken heart.
But the most remarkable evidence of a cat’s love for his owner, are the
documented incidences of cats traveling hundreds or thousands of miles
to places they’ve never been, and finding their owners. It’s a phenomenon
called Psi-trailing.
What about the “unselfish loyalty and benevolent concern for others?”
That doesn’t sound very cat-like. It’s true that if you hurt a cat, she’s
going to run away. She won’t come back to grovel and plead with you to
love her. Again, cats have boundaries and they are not terribly forgiving.
But they are loyal, as shown with the Psi-trailing phenomenon.
Selfless? Concerned about others? Yes. Cats have been known to risk their
lives for their owners. One kitty we know of fought off a poisonous snake
and took the bite that was meant for her owner (see Cat Heroes). Another
cat jumped out a window right after his owner fell out. Whether this was
an attempt to save the owner, or to die with him, no one will know. (The
cat was injured, but survived.)
On a less dramatic note—many cat owners say that their cat knows when
they are upset and will give comfort. Cats have even licked away tears.
If the cat were truly self-centered, she would stay away until the owner
was more in a frame to please her.
Though it may never be proven scientifically, those who give love and
devotion to their cats, get the same in return. Sometimes more.
Posted by Lia B. Petcentric.com
With the arrival of summer, many pet parents are eagerly opening their windows to enjoy the weather—and unknowingly putting their pets at risk. Unscreened windows pose a real danger to cats, who fall out of them so often that the veterinary profession has a name for the complaint—High-Rise Syndrome.
Courtesy of ASPCA
Vocal communication involves caterwauls for mating, chattering upon spotting prey, hissing to ward off an intruder, or shrieking when hurt or terrified. Meowing is not part of this language. Meow-ese, it would seem, is a language developed exclusively for humans.
The only meowing in the cat world is done between mom cat and her young kittens. A kitten’s tiny “mew” is a cute, endearing sound, used to solicit attention and care from mom cat.
So why do cats have two “languages?” Because meowing is unnecessary in a cat’s world. But in your world, your pet cat is dependent on you, and quickly learns that you are clearly not picking up the scent messages she leaves on your things, and you are not completely fluent in cat body language.
The disarming “meow” however gets you to do what she wants and so that develops into a second language. Some scientists would go so far as to say that cats have refined their meows specifically to manipulate people. We have to admit it works.
Cats have dozens of meow sounds that vary in pitch, length and volume. Most cat owners learn the language easily. A short, high-pitched meow is a standard “Hello!” Several of those strung together mean “You’re home! Yea!!!”
Cats use pleasant meow sounds to solicit requests for food, to go outside or to simply get attention. Your cat learns which meow is going to get the results he wants. You may find that the meows that tug at your heartstrings the most are the ones your cat is using for pleas such as, “pet me.”
Cats use unpleasant, harsher, louder meows for demands, reprimands or to express annoyance. These meows have a lower pitch and are not all that cute. Cats know not to use ugly meows to seek a favor–because you’re unlikely to comply with such rudeness.
Meow-ese seems to be generally understood by “cat people.” Dr. Nicholas Nicastro, Ph.D., who did his thesis on humans’ ability to understand meows, found that people who own cats were far better at understanding the meaning of meows than people that don’t. Dr. Nicastro recorded hundreds of meows cats used in real settings with their owners. He had people listen to the meows, then asked what they thought the cats were conveying.
Part of the experiment asked general interpretations (Does the cat sound angry or pleasant?) and part were more specific translations (Is this cat asking for food or does he want you to go away?).
Not surprising, the more experience the people had with cats, the better they were at understanding meows – those who had no cat experience scored very low. People who owned cats could correctly translate 40% of the meows. That’s pretty remarkable considering the respondents did not have the benefit of seeing the cat. Normally, when a cat meows, we get more clues to its meaning from the context in which the cat is speaking (by the door, near a dirty litter box, time of day, etc.) and from body language.
It’s kind of nice to think your kitty has gone to the effort to learn a second language to communicate with you. Sure, she did it mostly out of necessity, but also out of affection. She wouldn’t meow just for your attention if she didn’t enjoy a relationship with you.
The Meaning Behind the Meows
Your cat uses the basic meow in several variations in many situations. Even though there is a distinct “demand meow” for example, your cat may have separate variations for each of his regular demands. If you watch what your cat is doing when he meows, and listen carefully, you may learn to distinguish the demand meows, and eventually know the difference between his “let me out” demand and his “give me food” demand by sound alone.
Short meow or mew: Standard greeting. “Hello!”
Multiple meows or mews: Excited greeting. “Great to see you!”
Mid-pitch meow: Plea for something. “I’d like to eat.”
Drawn-out mrrroooow: Demand for something. “Open the door NOW.”
Low pitch MRRRooooowww: Complaint of a wrong you have done. “Hey – my bowl is still empty!”
High-pitch RRRROWW!: Anger or pain. “That’s my TAIL you just stepped on!”
Courtesy of Petcentric.com